Want to banish purple eye bags? Don’t scrimp on concealer. After plumper, more luscious-looking lips? Go for a bold lipstick. And for flawless, pore-less skin? Reach for maximum coverage foundation, of course.
Right? Wrong.
It turns out these age-old beauty tips have the same outcome: they make you look older, no matter which decade you’re in.
Celebrity makeup artist Tobi Henney from Sydney is known for her ‘light handed’ approach and her ability to bring out her clients’ best features – rather than drawing the eye to the products themselves.
She’s worked with stars of all ages including actress Jessica Alba, 43, model Barbara Palvin, 31, and designer Diane von Furstenberg, 77, and has created iconic looks for the Met Gala and the Cannes Film Festival.
And no matter the occasion, less is always more, in her opinion.
Here, she shares the common mistakes women make at different stages of their lives, the products you should banish from your beauty bag – and how to shave years off your face…
Twenties
According to Tobi, women in their twenties often make the most mistakes as they’re yet to fully understand their skin’s needs.
And their most common error? Over-applying foundation to achieve flawless skin.
This is a common social media trend, with reels on how to contour, a process whereby cosmetics are used to sculpt the face, but one which can also rob a face of its natural beauty, leading to the dreaded ‘cakey’ look.
Youthful skin doesn’t need much coverage no matter how many perceived flaws. In fact, layering foundation over spots only draws attention to them.
Tobi recommends younger women use a lighter foundation or a tinted moisturiser to enhance their natural skin, such as Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter ($70), which has a dewy illuminating finish.
The next most common mistake is buying the wrong colour base.
Opt for a brand like Fenty Beauty by Rihanna. Her Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation ($62) comes in an impressive 50 shades and is a oil-free formula that won’t clog pores. And remember: ‘It’s essential to test makeup in natural light to make sure it matches the skin tone,’ warns Tobi.
Thirties
‘This is when women need to start adjusting their makeup routine to account for subtle changes in skin texture, tone and facial structure,’ says Tobi.
Heavier eyeliner and dark eyeshadows should be ruled out because they make the eye look smaller. Tobi recommends opting for browns instead, such as Teddy Eye Liner by MAC ($52).
Now is the time to start with the daily sunscreen, too – a must to avoid premature ageing and skin damage. It needs to become part of your everyday routine. Even if the makeup you use says it includes SPF, it’s always safer to buy a dedicated product and apply it separately.
Try La Roche Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ ($37.95). Fast-absorbing, friendly to sensitive skin and dermatologist-approved, it has become a cult beauty classic for a reason.
You might be used to finishing your makeup with setting powder to mattify a shiny nose or chin – but beware of overdoing it. Powders will only emphasise fine lines and make skin look dull.
Forties
As they approach the perimenopause, women need to rethink their makeup routines.
Hormonal changes can often lead to drier, more uneven skin tone and texture, and your face may become more sensitive to products.
‘Women at this age have different skin concerns,’ says Tobi, ‘and certain makeup techniques that worked in the past might not be as flattering.’ For example, dramatic, dark or heavy lipstick needs to make way for creamy, moisturising lip colours in softer and more subtle shades, with an added touch of gloss.
She explains that the darker, matte colours make lips appear thin, but the softer and glossier shades will give the lips a gentle fullness that looks more youthful.
Fifties and beyond
This era is all about ‘enhancing natural beauty’ while maintaining a ‘fresh and youthful appearance’ – but this certainly doesn’t mean ditching makeup altogether.
In fact, Tobi’s number one tip is don’t forget the brows. They are often overlooked at this age – just when they need most attention.
They become thinner as we age so use a brow pencil or powder to fill in the sparse areas. This will frame the face and peel back the years.
Using the wrong concealer also ages more mature skin; if it’s too light or too thick, it will only accentuate under-eye circles and fine lines.
‘Choose a lightweight, hydrating concealer that matches your skin tone and apply it sparingly. Invest in a damp Beautyblender makeup sponge ($34) to blend properly.’
Trends to avoid at any age
Youthful makeup is all about hydration and dewiness: ‘Matte and dry skin is very ageing, as it can make fine lines and wrinkles appear more visible,’ says Tobi.
Instead use cream-based products that offer a ‘dewy’ foundation upon which you can build your desired look. This makes for ‘fresh-looking, hydrated skin’.
She also warns against any eyeshadow or lash looks that drag the eyes downward instead of lifting them up. This invariably makes the wearer look years older.
She recommends #1 The Serum (from $114) and #2 The Serum ($204) by Australian luxury skincare brand Rationale.
As for eyeshadow, she says MAC Cosmetics are the best, and the shade Woodwinked ($35) – a light brown with a metallic finish – works for everyone.
Above all, be sure to ditch products that have expired. Mascara goes off fastest, so typically you’ll need to update it every three months.
