‘Vista’ restaurant certainly lives up to its name – the view from it is so breathtaking I’ve been stopped in my tracks.
In fact, the views from just about everywhere at ‘The Polurrian on the Lizard’ hotel in Cornwall are so mesmerising it’s a wonder after checking in that my husband and I manage to move from one place to another at the property.
In Vista, we gaze through floor-to-ceiling windows at the sparkling Celtic Sea, marvelling at its Caribbean-esque turquoise hue.
Our vantage point is so excellent we can even see rip tides and currents hundreds of feet below.
The Polurrian sits on the western side of the Lizard Peninsula across Mount’s Bay from Porthcurno and St Michael’s Mount – and on a clear day diners can see it lurking in the distance.
To the north, meanwhile, is the golden sand of quiet Polurrian beach (owned by the hotel), while to the south guests can glimpse ‘Love Rock’ – a striking geological formation that sits on the cliff edge.
We’re to discover that seascape views are also on offer from the outdoor pool, tennis courts, the sunning lawn, the children’s playground and the sister Polurrian restaurant. Plus our sea-view family room, decorated in a cosy mid-century style and featuring beds in two rooms with plush feather bedding, a bathroom with a power shower and good quality Elemis toiletries.
After dropping our bags off there and drinking in the Vista views, we discover that the eatery serves up treats for the stomach as well as the eyeballs.
The cream tea (£21.95 or £29.45 with fizz) is delightful – we tuck into warm scones, soft finger sandwiches and buttery Champagne.
But the seasonal food at Vista’s sister restaurant, the Polurrian, is hit and miss. A high-quality full English breakfast and delicate kippers wow at first light while my duck starter at dinner melts in the mouth and the tender pork in mustard sauce has me licking my fingers.
But the vegetarian options are less impressive – my husband is served a confusing combination of orzo covered in oil, sundried tomatoes and tofu. At lunch, our pizza (£16) takes an hour to arrive and is undercooked.
Service at both restaurants is slow. Thankfully, this isn’t a place for rushing about and waiting affords us more time to stare at that bewitching panorama.
It’s vital to break free from the spell, though – because there is so much to explore nearby.
The back of the hotel leads to the quaint village of Mullion and the Lizard’s wild, green headlands.
We drive the hotel’s electric Jeep-style buggy to the Mullion chocolate factory (try the honey milk chocolate) and crafts centre, then buy traditional Cornish pasties from Prima Bakeries and sit in the quaint churchyard taking steaming-hot bites.
One afternoon, we head to The Old Inn in Mullion, where live music is playing in the beer garden and local cider quenches my thirst. My husband is driving, so he stays warm with a cup of tea.
The agenda also features a 10-minute walk from the hotel along the steep but beautiful path to Polurrian beach.
The water is cold, of course, this is England, but with wetsuits donned we brave the swell and enjoy having our feet tickled by kelp and seaweed.
More courageous guests enter the water wearing trunks or bikinis. They don’t last very long… unlike their dogs. The entire Polurrian hotel and beach are extremely dog friendly, so pets abound throughout our stay.
The days finish with a nightcap at the Polurrian, where crushingly beautiful sunsets root us to the spot once more.
