My mission to see if Capella Bangkok – the ‘world’s best hotel’ – lives up to the hype

The World’s 50 Best organisation recently expanded its repertoire from bars to beds with its 50 Best Hotel awards.

I check into the one that bagged the top spot – the Capella Bangkok.

As with most luxury hotels, an army of staff awaits arriving guests, and I’m quickly whisked through the enormous lobby to the Living Room. In this library-like space – a staple of Capella hotels – check-in kicks off with a welcome drink (I opt for a Coke, although options include sparkling wine and guava juice).

The 101 rooms, suites and villas all face the river. My riverfront room covers 61 square metres (656 sq feet) and feels enormous, despite being the smallest accommodation category.

Clever positioning of a recessed balcony area, divided from the bedroom by glass walls, is why I initially think I’ve bagged a corner suite.

Vast expanses of glass mean an abundance of natural light, and it’s only later when I realise that behind the bathroom mirrors is nothing but an internal glass wall between me and the bedroom, with its floor-to-ceiling windows.

For a nano-second I panic that the red lights atop distant skyscrapers are phones of office workers laughing at the oblivious, semi-naked Capella guest (me).

Added extras (including sockets and USB ports, thank goodness) abound – the mini bar’s non-alcoholic drinks are complimentary and my bathroom highlight is the set of boxed vanity items that slot together to reveal a riverside scene.

Beyond my room, I’m reminded of a James Bond villain’s lair – in a good way.

Despite being close to Bangkok’s centre, there’s a huge sense of space, and it often feels like I’m the only guest as I pass through ceiling-height doors that swoosh silently open to reveal cathedral-like public spaces with fantastic riverside views.

The other side of the Chao Phraya River, with its tangles of cranes, isn’t anything to write home about – it’s the river itself that makes the view.

During the day it’s a hive of activity, a constant flow of fishing boats and river taxis chugging along what’s known as Bangkok’s lifeblood.

Later, they’re replaced by tourist-laden party boats deploying retina-burning spotlights from top deck dancefloors. This is why it’s worth choosing your seating carefully in the hotel’s riverside Phra Nakhon restaurant, where iPad menus maintain the minimalism.

I enjoy dining outside, watching the flow of party boats, even if my pomelo salad comes with a soundtrack of Shakira. Somewhat quieter is Michelin-starred Cote by Mauro Colagreco, for dishes inspired by the Italian and French Riviera.

My fellow guests include a brash Brazilian guest shouting business deals into his phone during dinner, and at breakfast, six Americans discussing their love of Fiji. 

When I’m not lounging in my room flashing office workers, my favourite spot is Stella, the Art Deco cocktail bar and – when I visit – the setting for the hotel’s nightly Cin Cin hour, when guests enjoy complimentary drinks.

I suspect few guests stray far from the property, preferring to lounge poolside, or in the spa – when I ask a concierge for directions to Siam SkyTrain station, she assumes I mean Icon Siam, the luxury shopping centre nearby, and seems baffled I’d want to venture further afield.

Admittedly, despite the complimentary river shuttle, there are endless reasons to stay put, ranging from family-friendly activities such as painting workshops to muay Thai masterclasses.

I’m unsure how the hotel feels about its accolade. Perhaps it’s a blessing and a curse. When a hotel is named the world’s best, my radar goes up a notch.

Maybe it’s my Britishness, but the night before I’d stayed at a Singapore hotel where my minibar fridge contains a tiny milk jug. Luckily, I bring my own teabags to the Capella because my tea-related supplies amount to a trio of teabags (only one of which is English breakfast), and there is no milk. 

I also find it slightly frustrating that the television hangs somewhat lopsidedly from the wall. Minor complaints, but perhaps ones that shouldn’t exist at the world’s best hotel.

So is it? I’ve stayed in many, and I’d say no, but there are a lot of hotels, after all. 

I can think of several that would bag higher positions on my own top 50. These include London’s Shangri-La the Shard, with its beautifully furnished bedrooms, Hoshinoya Tokyo, an insanely luxurious ryokan, and the Swissôtel The Stamford Singapore, where employees’ attentiveness always blows me away. 

Best in the world? Maybe not. Top 10? Definitely.