Jewellery may be the smallest part of your outfit, but it has an outsize impact on how the world views you.
Having worked as an editor at Vogue, where I was jewellery director for 25 years, chasing the latest jewels to sprinkle over the pages of the magazine, I know every trend has a long history, yet also offers an extremely personal form of self-expression.
And while you could easily spend thousands on the finest gems, you can make an equally vivid statement shopping on the high street. You just need to work out what your statement piece is really saying about you.
I’ve decoded the six key jewellery trends for autumn, and selected pieces glittering with hope, possibility and novelty to see you through the winter season ahead…
REALLY WILD RINGS
This season the jewellery world is looking back to Victoriana, with nature symbols such as flowers, insects, swallows and serpents everywhere – especially on motif rings.
JW Anderson’s autumn/winter show featured tiny doves painted onto signet rings, and snake motifs shone at Chloe.
The trend for animals on jewels now is identity-led – pick an animal whose characteristics you admire or aspire to align with.
Thomas Sabo has a gold-plated snake ring at £180 – or River Island’s leopard ring is £14.
RETURN OF THE CHOKER
A fashion season covers many looks, so while I’m recommending long pendant necklaces, I’m also flagging a trend for short, tight chokers.
Chokers have often been described as colliers de chien, a fashion kickstarted in the mid-19th century when Hermes created a leather collar with studs for a client’s bulldog.
On the catwalks, Gucci featured circlets of metal dog collars; Chanel had ropes of pearls interspersed with chunky chains and heart-shaped pendants.
Marla Aaron’s necklaces have a series of twisting locks which attach chains together. Sandralexandra has the perfect choker for those who like the chain look, featuring glass handcrafted in Spain (£110), and you can get matching earrings for £43.
SUMPTUOUS CHANDELIERS
Chandelier earrings are back, which is great news because they throw a flattering light on the face as the dark days of winter approach – making them a far better investment than Botox in my opinion.
The original chandelier drops were designed to mimic Georgian candelabra, reflecting light as a woman danced around a candlelit room. Ballrooms are in short supply these days, but the importance of light never diminishes.
Dolce & Gabbana’s diamond chandeliers are stunning, but a cascade of crystal or semi-precious stones does the job nicely, too – like Swarovski’s mixed crystal (£350). A more affordable choice is lab-grown crystals such as Lovisa’s earrings (£18, seen on model).
There’s no need to go as far as shoulder skimmers as shown on the catwalks, and if chandeliers feel too flashy for your daytime, then pop them in your bag and bring them out to sparkle after dark – just like they do in Bridgerton.
SUPERHERO CUFFS
During the 1970s, every stylish wrist boasted a sculptural bangle after Tiffany & Co released its bestselling Bone Cuff, designed by Italian ex-model Elsa Peretti.
Now there is a resurgence in decorated wrists – but this time, you need something on each arm. Costume pieces by Goossens are a classic – the brand’s founder, Parisian jeweller Robert Goossens, made styles for Coco Chanel’s runway shows.
To keep things more affordable, look for pieces fashioned in glossy non-precious metals, resin, wood or leather, such as this wide, wavy bracelet by Anthropologie at £48.
ROMANTIC PENDANTS
Necklaces with a drop pendant were prominent on the autumn/winter catwalks at Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta and Gabriela Hearst. Long, loose and swaying, they ranged from polished stones to abstract metal shapes and charms, and some swung from leather ropes.
Pick a pendant that’s meaningful to you, or add your own special coin or charm, and the necklace becomes a personal talisman.
Or try beads because the 1970s vibe is back. Sienna Miller, the boho poster girl, was seen wearing a green malachite pendant on a Missoma chain (£105). A more affordable option is Ottoman Hands – its gold-plated turqouise pendant is £49.
PERFECT HOOPS
This season, jumbo-sized hoops are back, either in gold or chunky silver – look for volume which is also lightweight.
I’m not a fan of the new asymmetric hoop look, however.
Wearing one giant and one petite on the opposite ear just looks like you’ve put the wrong pair together.
Jennifer Fisher is the hoop queen of Manhattan, and makes every size and variety you could wish for, starting at £93 for her flat huggies (jenniferfisher.com), while Dower & Hall offer beautifully embellished pearl hoop earrings (£295). For chic affordability, look to Betty & Biddy – its striking Chubby hoops are just £16.
- If Jewels Could Talk: Seven Secret Histories by Carol Woolton is out September 26 (Simon & Schuster UK, £18.99)
