- Percy has opened in Pyrmont, a stone’s throw from Darling Harbour in Sydney
- The Spanish wine bar is proof of the Basque-dining trend sweeping the country
- FEMAIL speaks to the executive chef about some of his top kitchen tips
A new blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hot spot has Sydney foodies buzzing right now – and for a very good reason.
Tucked inside the newly revamped Hotel Woolstore 1888 in Pyrmont, Percy is a Spanish wine bar inspired by San Sebastián and Barcelona’s pintxos and tapas bars.
And as Basque-style cuisine continues to rise in popularity across Australia, it’s no surprise this little gem has already been a huge hit since its opening in late 2024.
Boasting a candlelit, electric atmosphere with Spanish tiles, marble tops and pottery influenced by Iberian Botijo and Pithos jugs, those who visit are immediately transported to another world.
And that’s before the food and drinks land.
The tapas menu showcases a lineup of pintxos and small plates, offering a snack-heavy experience that celebrates the fresh flavours of Spanish cuisine.
Guests can start with the famous Percy’s Gilda ($7), a twist on the traditional skewer of pickled guindilla peppers, salty manchego, and tangy olives. Other favourites include zesty Padron Peppers with Labneh ($14), savoury pan con tomate ($8) and spicy nduja butter on sourdough ($7).
Heartier options include the flank steak with mojo verde ($44) and spatchcock picante with sobrasada jus ($46), rounding out an exceptional mains experience.
The dessert is a highlight, with the crème Catalan (a Spanish dessert similar to a crème brûlée) up there with the tastiest in the state. A must try.
Percy’s laid-back drinks menu also embodies true Spanish style, featuring a rotating list of easy-drinking organic and minimal intervention wines, with a particular emphasis on native Spanish varietals.
The cocktails pair perfectly with the flavour-packed menu, with hits like the Riojan Sunrise ($22), which combines Spanish Gin, Gran Zinio Cava, and Hartshorn Sheep Whey Vodka, taking centre stage.
Speaking to FEMAIL, Percy’s Executive Chef, Eli Lozada, said truly authentic Spanish dining remains a rarity in Sydney despite nearly every other cuisine within reach.
‘At Percy, we want your experience to feel like a spontaneous tapas stop on the streets of Barcelona or San Sebastián,’ he says.
‘Although the food and beverage offerings are already great, I believe it’s the people and the service that we provide once you walk through our doors that really sets us apart, we aren’t very big, so you get this intimate feel when you dine with us.
‘It’s all very personalised, our staff are always keen to answer questions about the menu and the brand. You might even catch me in the dining room once in a while, checking on our diners.’
When asked what his favourite menu item was, Eli had an answer within seconds.
Secrets of a top Spanish chef: Eli Lozada
The perfect steak rub
With my steaks, I like it simple so I can taste the quality of the meat but if you’re in a hunt for a good steak rub, wildfire spice has my vote. It is a blend of mountain pepper, lemon aspen, lemon, aniseed, myrtle and a few conventional herbs and spices.
The perfect mignonette
Every good mignonette starts with your acid of choice, so go for an outstanding vinegar base like champagne vinegar, vermouth vinegar or even white balsamic.
The perfect butter to pair with sourdough
For sourdough, I reckon butter compound. Cultured butter whipped with your favourite flavours from kombu to anchovies to smoked salt. Our Nduja butter at Percy is pretty exceptional by the way and is my personal favourite.
The perfect salad dressing
An easy salad dressing I like to make that never fails to amaze is a mix of citrus juice, honey, and mustard but one that uses Apricot kernel oil instead of your traditional EVOO.
‘I love our mussels escabeche – it’s the perfect pairing. Sweet, tender mussels in a beautifully balanced escabeche sauce, complemented by crispy, salty potato chips. To me, it perfectly embodies what we stand for: simple yet sophisticated.’
When it comes to the crowd favourites, however, its the Txistorra that comes out on top – a traditional Spanish sausage from the Basque region.
‘It has been getting rave reviews. At Percy, we serve it with a velvety celeriac purée, roasted grapes, and a touch of sherry vinegar for balance,’ Eli says.
‘A close second? Our Crema Catalana – the perfect sweet finale to your dining experience.’
Padron peppers have also been surging in popular of late, with the sweet and spicy treats a go-to for foodies across Australia. Many get a thrill out of not knowing which will pack a punch and which will go down smooth.
‘I am a big fan of Padron peppers myself, in my recent trip to Barcelona I had it for five straight days,’ Eli says.
‘Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which peppers are spicy or not, we pair ours with a lemon labneh to cut through the heat in case you get lucky and eat the occasional spicy piece.’
Percy is open from 2pm-10pm Tuesday to Saturday.
Percy’s happy hour (3-6pm, Tuesday to Friday) brings the party to life with deals on tapas and cheeses.
